3/03/2005

vinous as a boy [this is an older post that i've only just got around to putting up.] yes, i'm taking liberties with my post titles now. but this one's for fred. (you like?) i've been doing a healthy amount of drinking, and this has led me to two lovely wines that are my current favorites: aglianico del vulture from basilicata, way down the italian boot, and txakoli (alternatively "txacoli", aka getariako txakolina or bizkaiko txakolina), a basque (hence the euskera tongue twisters) DOC white from getaria. aglianico is a delicious red that is yummy with everything. "molto bevvabile," the italians would call it. someone here in italy, however, recently opined that the txakoli is very much a tapas wine, so green and grassy and acidic is it that it's a good match for croquetas and jamon iberico. new york, i could eat you up! 5 ninth knocked our socks off. we had (deep breath) (in timmy's words, more or less): oysters with bacon peppers stuffed with uni, watermelon radishes and apples [then] hamachi collar glazed with kecap manis, shaved foie [then] grilled spanish mackerel with cauliflower puree and charred lamb hearts [and] skate with something asian tasting cod poached in leaf lard with bacon fluff [still] braised lamb belly yumminess [moving on] kid goat poached in mother's milk guinea hen on toasted bread with cockscomb sauce pork three ways: belly, chop, butt desserts were definitely less memorable than the rest of the meal, but serviceable nonetheless. the best dishes by far were the hamachi collar, spanish mackerel, and, actually, all of the last five proteins. that zak pelaccio loves his meat. i love his meat too. fish collar must be the latest trendy cut being served up in new york. it kept popping up all over the place. a week or so later, i had a grilled yellowtail collar at jewel bako makimono. much simpler, much less adorned, but just as tasty. i love this part of the fish -- meaty, fatty, a bit gelatinous even. a rundown of where i can remember eating in the six weeks i was in new york: katz's (pastrami), mamoun's (falafel), caracas arepa bar, city bakery, doughnut plant (cinnamon bun & jelly doughnut), pearl oyster bar, karihan ni tata bino (filipino), sripraphai (thai), jewel bako (sushi), jewel bako makimono (sushi), sushi seki (more sushi), momofuku (ramen), spicy & tasty (sichuan), new chao chow, el huipil (pozole), baked (carrot cake), A&A bake and doubles (trinidadian), karam (lebanese), blue smoke (pulled pork, devilled eggs), congee village (cantonese), della rovere (like, 8 times), punch & judy, clinton st. baking co. (brunch), angon on sixth (indian), 'inoteca, the modern, 5 ninth, wd-50 (a recap forthcoming, i promise.). i don't know whether to feel sick or hungry. (i'm sure i'm leaving out more than a few places, which is probably the sick part.)

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